Thursday, December 17, 2015

The Red Gown

My SIL came to me about a month ago and said "Tee I learned my lesson about ordering dresses from China!  I want you to make me a red gown". Of course it would have been better if she asked in September. She's a great friend so I said of course!  She choose this Vogue dress pattern, because she liked the neckline, sleeves, and bottom flounce.

Ok, so when a person does this I go to my Wildginger software and create the silhouette, then using the flat pattern method I add the details they like.  Works like a charm every time! 

 Because my SIL is a DD cup I'd have to do FBA on the pattern anyway.  The great thing about the software is you enter the bust and cup size so there are usually only minimal adjustments---nowhere near the work of a full bust adjustment!!!!!   

I made up the muslin minus the sleeves and bottom flounce in a woven and it fit pretty good. Of course she said she wanted to get rid of the ease. No problem since she choose a knit fabric. The pattern called for woven.  So using the muslin as my pattern, I eliminated 1/2 inch from one side of each pattern piece and that gave her the "body-con" fit she wanted.   

I used a beautiful Italian Designer Double knit from Gorgeous Fabrics. It was substantial enough that I didn't have to line it.  I made a facing instead. I used the serger to hem the flounce and sleeves.  I used regular thread in the needle and upper looper because it's thicker than Serger thread and the 3-thread rolled hem covered the fabric edges pretty nicely!  

I used the pattern muslin to make the facing.
My homemade seam roll is perfect for pressing long seams without having to move the roll up and down.  

The key to great pressed seams is using a clapper and letting it cool before you move it!
I love my Reliable steam iron!!!!

Look at those perfectly pressed seams!!!

Do you know how to use you clapper.   It's great for pressing inside tiny areas.

This neckline is adorable!!!
Invisible zipper perfect!

Love this flounce!!!

She's wearing the gown Friday so I'll post pics of her in it later. 

Happy sewing!!!!


mrsmole said...

It is gorgeous, Tee!!!! She will be the belle of the ball for sure and people will be asking where she bought that dress. Great job and I love your extra long pressing roll...that would be fabulous for pants seams!

Tee said...

Thanks Mrs. Mole! I do use the pressing roll for pant seams!!!! Happy Holidays!!!!

TheTellTaleTasha said...

It's looks beautiful.

You said you used a software for the pattern? So you didn't use the pattern? I'm a little confused.

TheTellTaleTasha said...

It looks beautiful. You said you used a software? So you didn't use the pattern? I'm a little confused.

Tee said...

Hi Tasha,

I used the PMB5 to draft a sheath dress with shoulder princess darts that was customized to her specific measurements. I used the sleeve pattern from the Vogue pattern and copied the front "v" in the bodice to the PMB5 pattern. They produce a pattern that you print and tape together. It's wonderful because once you have a sloper that fits, you can make whatever pattern you need. Check it out at

Faye Lewis said...

That dress is going to be beautiful!

MAD14kt said...

WONDERFULLY DONE!!! :) I don't use my clapper :(. After seeing you. I promise to incorporate mines into the process :) FIESTA!!!

Bunny said...

Gorgeous work and dress! Love that super long seam roll!

365 Dresses said...

A beautiful dress, Tee! Just gorgeous!! I love your tip about using regular thread in the serger! Great idea.

Patty said...

Beautiful! Thanks for sharing the details about the construction. Using the right tools makes job easier and the finished product more polished!